Summers in Japan are hot and humid—perhaps not the ideal time to visit, but for many people it’s the only opportunity. I’d like to share our trip to the Mt. Fuji area on a hot day in mid-July, with low clouds threatening rain. I hope our day gives you a few ideas for enjoying the region, whatever the weather.
As often happens in summer, Mt. Fuji kept its summit hidden behind the clouds, but that didn’t stop us from having a wonderful day. From fragrant lavender gardens and crystal-clear ponds to delicious local treats and peaceful riverside walks, we discovered that there’s plenty to enjoy, even when the mountain doesn’t reveal itself.
So, come along and see what the Fuji area has to offer, even when Mt. Fuji decides to stay behind the clouds.
Our first stop was Lake Kawaguchiko. About a two-hour drive from Tokyo, it’s one of the Fuji Five Lakes and a place I never miss when I’m in the area. Of course, the views of Mt. Fuji are one of the main attractions, but I also love strolling through Oishi Park on the lakeshore.
One of the things I love most about Oishi Park is that it’s never quite the same twice. The gardens are replanted several times a year, so each season brings a different display of flowers—from roses and hydrangeas to lavender and colorful autumn blooms. Every visit feels like discovering a new garden.
In midsummer, the air at Oishi Park is filled with the sweet scent of lavender, as the blooming fields stretch right to the lakeshore. The view across the water always reminds me of the lakes of northern Italy, with pretty villas and hotels nestled among groves of trees and the dark green, candle-like silhouettes of cypress trees. On a clear day, you’re rewarded with the bonus of seeing Mt. Fuji rising majestically above the opposite shore. We weren’t quite that lucky, but we rewarded ourselves with a different kind of treat instead.
Our reward came in the form my favorite treat at Oishi Park—the delicious ice cream from the souvenir shop. Made with locally produced milk and flavored with Yamanashi’s famous fruit, it tasted absolutely heavenly on such a hot summer day. Choosing a favorite is never easy. This time, the Kyoho and Muscat grape swirl just edged out the seasonal lavender flavor—but only by a whisker.
Our next stop was Lake Yamanaka—the largest of the Fuji Five Lakes. On a clear day, it offers one of the most beautiful views of Mt. Fuji. Well, by now you know how that went. The lake is also known for its swans, which have given it the nickname “Swan Lake.” We stopped at one of the boat docks and bought a bag of pellets for the swans. As it turned out, they had plenty of competition! The local koi carp, ducks, and other waterfowl had all learned where an easy meal could be found, and watching the scramble for food was every bit as much fun as feeding the swans themselves.
By lunchtime, we were ready for a break from the summer heat, and Patisserie Haconowa Yamanakako turned out to be a lucky discovery. I loved my duck pastrami sandwich that was followed by an unforgettable crème caramel. It’s definitely a place I’d happily visit again, and next time, if the day is clear I’ll make sure to check out the rooftop terrace, which is said to have beautiful views straight across to Mt. Fuji. In case you are in the area and want to check out Haconiwa here is the address:
69 Hirano, Yamanakako, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0502
Our last stop was Oshino Hakkai, one of my favorite places in the Mt. Fuji area. Its name (literally “Oshino of the Eight Seas”) comes from the eight crystal-clear ponds, fed by Mt. Fuji’s snowmelt. The water is astonishingly clear—you can see the bottom, gently swaying water plants, and rainbow trout swimming through it. The village itself is wonderfully picturesque, with traditional houses, beautiful gardens, and a small river lined with old cherry trees. After a hot day, the shady riverside path felt wonderfully cool. Looking back, that peaceful walk along the river is one of the memories that has stayed with me the most.
Travel doesn’t always go according to plan, and that’s part of the fun. Sometimes the best memories come from the things you weren’t expecting. Would we have loved to see Mt. Fuji in all its glory? Of course. But even without that famous view, we had a wonderful day. The lakes, gardens, little cafés, and local treats made the trip worthwhile. If you’re visiting the area in summer, or in any other season, I hope this post gives you a few ideas for enjoying it—even if Mt. Fuji decides to keep you guessing.